*Note: We travelled to Asakusa before the discovery of the Omicron COVID variant*
Introduction:
Simon:
It’s an interesting time to be a foreigner living in Japan. With the government still restricting travel into the country, many of the typical tourist spots around the country are far less crowded than usual. Japan has been relatively cautious with letting travelers in, and that is likely to continue even after the decline of the omicron variant. In the meantime, we thought we could provide you with travel ideas for some old favorites in Tokyo, like Asakusa.
One thing I really like about Japan compared to my home, the United States, is its strong support network of small businesses. Especially in areas that have a history of traditional craftsmanship, it’s remarkable how long some shops have been around. Tokyo’s Asakusa is a great example, with some shops having been open for over a century. With this in mind, Michelle and I thought it would be interesting to shine some light on these businesses with the help of OMVE, a website promoting Asakusa’s local craftspeople.
Michelle:
I was asked to be the photographer on this trip and I must say I had some trepidation going in. Asakusa is one of the standard day trips I take any visitor coming to Tokyo. I had been there many times before, on a squashed snail’s pace down the main shopping street, while friends purchased plastic souvenirs of Tokyo Tower, sumo bobblehead dolls or fake geta.
What Simon and I experienced this time opened my eyes to the unique beauty and history of Asakusa. I felt invited to a Japan that not many tourists get to witness. This was the subtle side of Asakusa, full of community spirit and genuine omotenashi—Japanese hospitality.
Part 1: Local Food in Asakusa
Café Aroma (Coffee Shop):
Simon:
The atmosphere here was excellent, and so was the coffee. The first thing I noticed was a combination of older regulars and younger patrons, freely conversing with one another. I’ve always regarded Asakusa as somewhat of a tourist hub, and never as a community of people. Being in Café Aroma was one of the first times I realized that people lived and worked here, and had their local haunts and favorite places. Upon entry, we also noticed the smell of freshly brewed coffee, a great sign of what was to come.
The coffee was brewed with old-looking pots, like something you’d see in a family photo from the 1960s. The wooden interior was something reminiscent of the quiet Japanese Netflix series Midnight Diner. The coffee tasted excellent, as expected, and the owner of the shop was very welcoming. Overall, the whole place gave a very “Showa Era” vibe to me. You could even call it “Showa chic,” if you wanted to.
Michelle:
A little shop, no bigger than an average Western kitchen, with an exterior devoid of any flashy advertising. I was not expecting much as I entered on a sunny Saturday morning for my first hit of caffeine. However, what Café Aroma lacks in décor and space, it makes up for with fabulous coffee and cozy charm.
This is a true kissaten (coffee shop). The water is poured from a kettle which has seen many a cup in its years of service. Freshly ground beans are heaped into a Hessian bag with a healthy dose of sugar, as the welcoming owner slowly pours boiling water lovingly over the coffee. Creamy milk simmers gently on a stove top, reminiscent of a time when my grandma would make some hot milk to help me sleep.
It’s a slow process, but in this charming coffee shop, time is a gift. A gift to be used to converse with regulars, young and old, and a gift to truly enjoy a really good cup of coffee. There are no bells and whistles, no modern machinery or merchandise. This is not the place for non frap, skim, non fat, no sugar extra whip, but I for one, appreciate that coffee shops like this still exist. Let the coffee speak for itself.
Yohai (Japanese Confectionary):
Simon:
Yohai’s specialty is dango, Japanese rice flour dumplings usually served on a skewer. They serve all kinds of dango and change their menu according to the time of year. I, however, got the shoyu dango, or soy sauce-flavored dango. Sometimes, you just need to try the basics for a benchmark. Good dango has a soft, chewy texture that’s really easy to eat, and this one definitely passed the taste test for me.
They also make the dango at the very front of the shop, so you can have a good look at how the dango is rolled. The decorations inside the shop are again very “Showa Era,” reminiscent of more traditional Japanese designs with Western-style booths. Hand towels on the wall, at first glance, look inconspicuous, but are actually designs from the hit anime series “Demon Slayer.” The interior is definitely not to be missed, and while you can enjoy your dango outside the shop around the beautiful Sensoji Temple, see if you can take a look inside. Like a lot of Japan, the shop is a great infusion of old and new.
Yoroiya Ramen:
Simon:
Asakusa was the place where Tokyo’s special shoyu ramen or soy sauce ramen was first developed. The owner of the shop was born and raised in Asakusa, and he even sits on the neighborhood council! That’s some dedication to the community. This dedication is also reflected in the ramen served at the shop.Shoyu ramen is, of course, the featured item on the menu, but shio or salt ramen is also a favorite. The shop selects rare two-yolked eggs from Iwate Prefecture to use in their ramen. The two yolks in the “deluxe ramen” make a significant difference, giving the egg and broth a richer flavor as they intermingle. Other than that, the ramen is quite straightforward. The goal is not to be high concept; that’s not Asakusa’s style. Drawing on tradition and a long-standing relationship with the neighborhood, Yoroiya is a solid place for a good bowl of ramen for lunch or dinner.
Michelle:
I love ramen after a night out drinking, but it’s unusual to find me seeking it out as a restaurant meal. I was pleasantly surprised. Downstairs, chefs masterfully assemble the ramen while they tend to the broth which judging by its rich flavor, has been brewing for hours.
Upstairs is the dining area. Comfortable but nothing fancy. The food and drink menus are also limited, but they do provide them in both English and Chinese.
What Yoroiya offers—ramen—they do exceptionally well.
I had ramen with pork—a delicious hot bowl of chewy noodles, coated with a rich soy broth and a generous serving of sliced pork. The serving size was just right for a warming and satisfying lunch. No ramen sweats. I will definitely be returning.
Kono-hana (bakery):
Simon:
Kono-hana was the last food stop on our tour of Asakusa, and it was yet another shop with a great atmosphere. The storefront is very cozy, with most of the store’s space devoted to ovens and other baking equipment. I always take this as a good sign, because you know every baked good in front of you was probably made in-house. The staff here were very friendly and happy to explain the different pastries and breads.
I bought an almond bun, hoping to relive some nostalgia. My mother used to make similar buns on the weekends when I was growing up in the United States. The bun had that wonderful signature almond taste; sweet and nutty, and the dough itself was a good consistency and not too thick. I’ve had trouble finding good almond-flavored pastries in Japan, so this really hit the spot for me. The shop’s specialty is something called maru-pan, a circular bread roll. Next time I go, I definitely would like to give that a try.
Thanks for reading about all our experiences at Asakusa! Stay tuned for more Asakusa tips coming soon in the second part of this article! If you want to learn more about places mentioned in this article, check out OMVE Asakusa.
